Men's Fashion: Choose a Suit

Society | December 5, 2003, Friday // 00:00

The "cut" of a suit refers to how the suit generally hangs off your body. There are three general cuts: (1) The American cut - the industry standard, middle of the road suit cut. This is basically the normal type of suit you see people wearing, and should be your choice of cut for your first suit. (2) The full cut - this kind of suit is not tapered at the waist, so it tends to hang straight down and allow more room at the waist. This cut is often preferred by fuller-figured men, complete with the two vents mentioned below. This is more the classic look, which would be acceptable for a first suit. (3) The European cut- this one tapers at the waist, for a trim, fit look.

Shoulder pads help the suit hang properly, make you look more muscular than you probably are, and make for a more slender look overall.

Arms and sleeves should end at the point where your hands meet your wrists and show a quarter inch of your shirt sleeve; make sure that you don't feel like you're wearing a straight jacket and that you have free movement of your arms. As a test, bring your arms out straight in front of you, and try sitting in a chair and pretending you're writing or eating. You should always be comfortable.

Two or three buttons are okay, but always leave the bottom one undone. If you have an athletic build, a low button stance is best, and if you're more of a portly fellow, the high button stance is best.

Pleats - okay with or without. They are recommended, again, for those of a fuller abdomen, while discouraged for those who are extremely thin.

Cuffs - these help the pants to hang properly by providing a little weight at the bottom. They look better on someone with long legs, so the shorter man should definitely avoid them.

Accessories - Your belt must match your shoes, and leather is the preferred material. Your shoes should also be leather. As for color, you usually can't go wrong with black. Your socks should match your pants, and they must be dress socks. No thick black tube socks.

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