Ray Hurley

Times Live

South Africa

I visited the famous Rila Monastery, just south of Bulgaria' s capital, Sofia, on an overcast and chilly day.

This 10th-century repository of priceless manuscripts and icons is probably most famously known for its vibrant, colorful murals that adorn virtually every square centimeter of wall in this splendid edifice.

The 11am train from Sofia's main railway station was far too late for the early morning start my companion and I had in mind. We opted for the more inconvenient (as it turned out) early morning bus.

While traveling over what must be the most atrocious roads in Europe, the discomfort was compensated for by fields of blood red poppies splashed against lush verdant lands as far as the eye could see.

The bus broke down halfway through the trip. To cut a long story short, another bus, a freelance taxi and a short hike eventually got us to the monastery.

I left Josie, my fellow backpacker, who is from the US, to explore the monastery, while I immersed myself in the breathtaking surroundings. That's where I came across this grand stone chapel.

The river cascaded down in a joyous rush, eager to greet me.

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